If you've upgraded to Windows 8 or Windows 10, and your DVD drive isn't being recognized, try this fix:
https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03370738
Specifically, clear the upper and lower registry filters, and reboot. This worked for me.
Friday, November 29, 2019
Thursday, October 3, 2019
How to format large (2TB+) drive on RHEL 6 and 7 Linux
This will work for USB drives, and internal drives too.
From https://www.cyberciti.biz/tips/fdisk-unable-to-create-partition-greater-2tb.html
umount /dev/sdb
parted /dev/sdb # make sure it's sdb
mklabel gpt
unit TB
mkpart primary 0.00TB 4.00TB # Change 4 to whatever your drive size is
print
quit
mkfs.ext4 /dev/sdb1
mkdir /mnt/sdb1
mount /dev/sdb1 /mnt/sdb1
df -k # Verify the drive size is correct
(Edit: Previously I had a typo in the title and said 2GB+ instead of 2TB+)
From https://www.cyberciti.biz/tips/fdisk-unable-to-create-partition-greater-2tb.html
umount /dev/sdb
parted /dev/sdb # make sure it's sdb
mklabel gpt
unit TB
mkpart primary 0.00TB 4.00TB # Change 4 to whatever your drive size is
quit
mkfs.ext4 /dev/sdb1
mkdir /mnt/sdb1
mount /dev/sdb1 /mnt/sdb1
df -k # Verify the drive size is correct
(Edit: Previously I had a typo in the title and said 2GB+ instead of 2TB+)
How to mount an Exfat USB drive on RHEL 6 or 7 Linux
sudo -i
yum group install 'Development Tools'
yum install fuse-devel gcc autoconf automake git
cd /usr/local/src && git clone https://github.com/relan/exfat.git
cd exfat
autoreconf --install
./configure --prefix=/usr
make && make install
make clean
or
[for RHEL 7] yum install https://li.nux.ro/download/nux/dextop/el7/x86_64/nux-dextop-release-0-5.el7.nux.noarch.rpm
[for RHEL 6] yum install https://li.nux.ro/download/nux/dextop/el6/x86_64/nux-dextop-release-0-2.el6.nux.noarch.rpm
From
https://access.redhat.com/solutions/70050
Friday, January 4, 2019
How I got my 2005 Scion tC ready for a California Smog check in 12 hours
I tried to start up my 2005 Scion tC to drive it for a smog check, and the battery was dead. I replaced the battery, but that cleared the ECU memory, meaning that the ODBII reader reported that the emissions tests were "NOT READY".
Most of the internal tests are easy to pass, but the infamously difficult ones to clear the test are the Catalytic Converter, and Evap tests. Here's how I got both tests in the "ready" state in 12 hours:
Most of the internal tests are easy to pass, but the infamously difficult ones to clear the test are the Catalytic Converter, and Evap tests. Here's how I got both tests in the "ready" state in 12 hours:
- I started the car, warmed it up by driving it around for about 10 minutes, and then drove between 40-50 MPH for 7 minutes, trying my best not to stop or deviate from that speed range. I found a road with a 45 MPH speed limit that went on for about 5-6 miles, with not many signal lights. If you run into a few signal lights, you still might pass the test. Then, the second part of the test is driving between 35-45 MPH for another 7 minutes. Basically try to drive between 40-45 MPH for 14 minutes. To my surprise, the Catalytic Converter passed, according to the ODBII reader I had. I have another car that is having a hard time passing the Catalytic Converter test, but I think that car has a bad thermostat. The Catalytic Converter test has to run at a certain temperature range.
- Next was getting the Evap test ready. This was more challenging. I stopped the engine, opened the gas cap, then started the engine. I got the temperature up again, and then idled in park at 3500-4000 RPM for 12 seconds (at least 10). Then I drove the car around for 15-50 minutes, turning on the A/C or front defroster when I ran into traffic or hit a red light. This test didn't work, because you also have to make sure that the car engine is completely cooled before you start this test. I waited 8 hours, and tried the test again. weather.com said my city was 39 degrees, so I was worried the test wouldn't pass. I heard that the temp has to be at least 40 degrees, or you can run the test twice if the temperature is less than 40 degrees (spaced 8 hours apart). I went out, opened the gas cap and closed it, started the car to get it warmed up, and then plugged in the ODBII reader while the car was still on. To my surprise, the Evap test was ready when I checked, after about 5 minutes of idling. I was really surprised I didn't have to rev the engine again and let the car idle (with the A/C or defroster on) for 15-50 minutes. I that what happened was that part of the test was completed 8 hours prior, but the car still needed to do the other part of the test, involving a cold engine start.
Now, the ODBII reader says the car is "ready" for all the tests, after about 12 hours. I just need to do the actual test now, and hope that it passes!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)