How to fix a 2005 Toyota Sienna coolant leak

If your Sienna is overheating, but only while idle, you might have a coolant leak from the "valley".  It's a lot of work to reseal the coolant valley gasket, but it's mostly just a lot of bolts, with some other steps.

This is the go-to video to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6QC0p7x1cw  Watch the whole thing (multiple times).

He skips some basic steps, so watch this video for step-by-step instructions for the initial steps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2R_v3vn0rNo

Here's another video with some more step-by-step instructions for the middle steps, especially for removing the 3 bolts behind the intake manifold: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLx8wArDpnQ

This video might have additional hints for locations of bolts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv71aCmJaE8

Here's some torque specs: https://www.tsienna.net/knock_sensor-2306.html

More torque specs:

 

This picture will help  you find all the bolts:

 

This will help you find bolts too: 

 

This is the intake valley plate that has the leaky gasket.  It will be helpful in finding the locations of the 10 bolts.

Finally, here's some details which worked for me. I used Toyota FIPG, which I bought on Amazon.  The directions say wait 15 minutes, but I waited 16 hours.  However, when I added coolant it leaked a whole bunch.  When I drove it, it leaked more.  I didn't do anything at all the next 3-5 days, and didn't drive it.  After 3-5 days, I topped off the coolant, and it didn't leak at all. Not one drop.  The coolant level stayed the same.  I drove it about 150 miles, and no leaks, and no overheating at all.  The temperature is right below the mid-point, which is perfect.  I think it just took 3-5 days for the FIPG to fully cure.  Maybe I used too much?

One of the hardest parts was getting the 3 bolts out behind the intake manifold gasket.  The two on the drivers-side were 12 mm, and they weren't too bad.  I was able to squeeze a 1/4" breaker bar with a socket, or a 1/4" socket wrench and it came right out.  The 14mm bolt on the passenger side was much harder.  Feel around just to the right (closer to the driver) of the 14mm bolt, and there is a 10mm bolt.  Loosen that 10mm bolt with a 1/4" socket wrench, which will move some of the hoses out of the way, which will give you more room to get the 14mm bolt out.  (Don't remove the 10mm bolt - just loosen it).  Then this 14mm wrench will be super helpful in getting the 14mm bolt out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082M8Z6G9  With those tricks and tools, it's really not that hard to get those 3 bolts out.  Some people complained about putting back in the 3 bolts, but I didn't have any major troubles, especially if the 10mm bolt is loosened.  (Don't forget to tighten back that 10mm bolt).

There is some risk in dropping your tools or bolts, so you can tie medium-gauge fishing line (8-10 lb?) around your tools or bolts, which helps if you drop something.  I did drop a few bolts, but I got lucky and was able to recover them - one time because it fell on the ground.

The 14mm flexible head ratcheting wrench - one of my favorite tools in my toolbox.  Although I have no idea if I'll use it again.  It was fun to use.

How to fix a 2005 Toyota Sienna power sliding door

If the power sliding door works when you pull on the door handle (either inside or outside), but it doesn't work from (1) the key fob, (2) the square button next to the door, or (3) the button on the roof near the driver console, then you probably have a bad sliding door lock actuator.  You can buy a replacement part on eBay for about $16, free shipping, and free returns.  

It's a little tricky to swap it out, but here's what worked for me.

Start with this video, which will show you the basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivC0WdRTkNY&ab_channel=RicoL

But... take seriously his warning about stripping the brass Phillips head screws.  I stripped both.  I didn't really try the soldering iron technique, but you could try that.  Be prepared to drill out the screw if you still strip it though. But stripping it and drilling it out isn't the end of the world.  (I stripped it and had to drill both out).

Watch this video at the 2 and 7 minute marks to see how to remove the sliding door panels: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlJA7p4n0mI&ab_channel=TeddyHashee

Unfortunately, there was another very helpful youtube video that explains how to detach the regulator from the sliding door's window, but the author has removed that video.  There are 6 10mm bolts to remove it.  It's tricky, because the sliding window tries to fall (due to gravity and not being attached to the regulator).  If you have 1 (or 2) others to help you, that will help a lot.  But it's not necessary.  You can do all you need yourself with blue painters tape to hold up the window.  It uses a lot of tape, but it should be less than 1 roll.  You can try suction cups, but the ones I bought from Amazon were only good enough to keep the window up if it was rolled all the way up, due to the short cords.

This video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHUvj6wuAQw&ab_channel=MT) is helpful in explaining what to do if you strip the brass Phillips head screws holding the actuator to the door panel.  He drilled it out, and I ended up having to drill it out too.  He doesn't explain how to drill it out, but I used a 1/4" bit to get the head off, and then a 3/16" bit to pierce a hole to do the final detachment.  I did drill a little bit of the black metal panel, but my washers were still barely wide enough to cover the whole.  If I had to do it again, I'd try a smaller bit - or just get larger washers.  The video has helpful information about which metric screws to buy at Home Depot.  I used hex head bolts, with an M4 16 mm screw length, which worked perfectly.  I also used the only M4 washer Home Depot had, but I probably should have used a larger washer (too).

The first video explains how to use a 90" screwdriver to get the screw off, but I'd avoid that technique.  I found it easer to just completely remove the black panel (well it was still mostly attached to the door, but I could fully bend it down onto my lap), giving yourself plenty of space to work the drill.  Had I done that to begin with, I might have been successful with a Phillips head screwdriver - especially if I used a soldering iron.  But if you already stripped the screw, then still take off the black panel, and you have plenty of room for your drill.  You do have to remove the 6 10mm bolts to detach the window regulator from the window.  It's kind of tricky (such as moving the window up and down to access the bolts, but doable.  For the window switch, I elected to remove the outer plastic panel by removing the 2 brass screws connected to the window switch, which was much better than trying to remove the electrical connector.  You will need to move the window up and down during the repair anyway, 

How to show HTTP POST Request parameters (through Inspect) on a popup window

I wanted to see what HTTP POST request parameters were being sent using the "Inspect" feature in Firefox.  The page was a popup, and when I clicked on "Inspect" and reloaded this page, a different page appeared.  I solved it by temporarily opening all new links in the same window.  You can open the Inspect frame, go to the Network tab, and then click on the link that will open the new window.  This blog says to do this in about:config:

browser.link.open_newwindow => 1
browser.link.open_newwindow.restriction => 0
browser.link.open_newwindow.override.external => 3

Ironically, I'm opening the above link in a new window. :)  So test it out.